Feasts Forgotten: Exploring the Lost Flavors and Festive Traditions of Winters Past

Today, when we think of winter holiday fare, certain familiar foods come to mind: roasted turkey or ham, mashed potatoes, pies, cookies, and perhaps a candy cane or two. But if we dig a bit deeper into culinary history, we encounter a fascinating world of festive foods once beloved, but now largely forgotten.

These dishes, hallmarks of winter gatherings from Christmas and Hanukkah, to New Year's and Epiphany, emerged out of scarcity, celebration, and centuries-old customs. The tale they tell is not just a story about food, but of shifting tastes, immigrant journeys, and how we celebrate in a modern world. Some are strange. Some are beautiful. All are windows into the holidays of yesteryear.

The Curious Case of Sugarplums

One of the most misremembered holiday treats is the sugarplum. Immortalized in The Night Before Christmas and The Nutcracker, most people today, picture a fruit-flavored candy or gumdrop. But traditional sugarplums had nothing to do with plums.

A sugarplum was a seed or nut, coated in dozens or even hundreds, of thin layers of sugar and spice — a labor-intensive process called “panning.” The result was a hard, glossy treat with a spiced, crunchy center. Think Jordan almonds, but often flavored with caraway, fennel, or aniseed. Sweet and savory, they were once luxury items — prized enough to dance in children’s heads.

Today, few confectioners make them the old-fashioned way. Most modern "sugarplums" are soft no-bake treats made with chopped dried fruit and nuts. Tasty, but a far cry from the shimmering marvels of centuries past.

Figgy Pudding and Plum Pudding

“Now bring us some figgy pudding!” demands the carol, “We Wish You a Merry Christmas”— but who even remembers what figgy pudding actually is? Traditional figgy pudding (also called plum pudding) was a rich, spiced, steamed dessert dating back to medieval England. Despite the name, early versions didn’t always include figs or plums. The word “plum” once referred to any dried fruit. Made with suet (beef fat), breadcrumbs, eggs, and a generous helping of brandy, the pudding was boiled for hours, aged for weeks, then doused in liquor and flambéed at the table.

It was once the dessert of Christmas Day across the English-speaking world. But its dense, heavy texture and long preparation time fell out of favor post-WWII. Today, it survives mostly in song — or on grocery store shelves in canned form, sold to nostalgia-seekers and Anglophiles.

The Boar’s Head and Other Medieval Showstoppers

Holiday feasts in Medieval Europe weren’t just about indulgence, they were about spectacle. Nothing proclaimed status louder than the boar’s head — roasted whole and carried to the table with pomp and pageantry. Garnished with apples and greens, the boar’s head was symbolic of bravery, triumph, and wealth. Among the rich and famous, it might even be re-dressed in its own fur after roasting — a culinary sleight of hand meant to wow the crowd.

Today, few of us are roasting boars for New Year’s, though some British universities and Renaissance festivals maintain the tradition in ceremony, and sometimes still as cuisine.

Mince Pies — Once Meaty, Now Sweet

The mince pies of today are small, sweet pastries filled with dried fruit, spices, and sometimes a splash of brandy. In centuries past, however, they included real minced meat, like lamb or beef, blended with suet, raisins, and exotic spices. These pies were often oval-shaped to represent the manger and were symbolic as much as savory.

Over the years, meat gradually disappeared from recipes — particularly during the Victorian era when tastes shifted toward sweeter desserts. Modern versions are still widely enjoyed in the UK during December, but are a rarity this side of the Atlantic.

Hanukkah's Lost Latkes — and Goose?

While potato latkes are an iconic food of Hanukkah today, they’re actually a relatively modern twist. In older times, particularly in Eastern Europe, latkes were made from curd cheese or buckwheat. Potatoes only became the central ingredient after their introduction to Europe in the 18th century.

Another fading tradition? Goose. Before chicken and turkey reigned supreme on grocery store  shelves, goose was a favored Hanukkah (and Christmas) main course in many European households. Fatty and rich, it was often served with dumplings or braised cabbage. Spendy and hard to find today, goose is replaced by brisket, roast poultry, or vegetarian fare in many homes.

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Wassail and the Bowl

Prior to eggnog, there was wassail — a hot, spiced cider or ale served from a communal bowl. The term comes from the Old English “waes hael,” meaning “be well” or “be healthy.” In the wassailing tradition, townsfolk would go house to house singing and sharing drink — a cross between caroling and Halloween.

Certain versions of the drink were thickened with bread or egg, closer to a mulled porridge than a cocktail. Its communal nature and warming spices made it a staple of old English winter feasts.

Today, wassail survives more as a quaint lyric than a living beverage, though cider-based versions have begun popping up again at farmers markets and craft beverage festivals.

Why These Foods Vanished

So why did these dishes disappear? Some fell victim to changing tastes — modern palates favored lighter, fresher fare over dense, suet-heavy confections. Others became impractical in a world of ready-made desserts and holidays condensed down to single-day rather than multi-day events. Still others were tied to old religious or social rituals that faded as secular culture took hold.

Immigration also altered the holiday menu. Many families adapted their traditional recipes to what was available — and affordable — in a new country. Over time, the originals faded into memory.

Bringing Them Back (Or At Least Remembering)

There’s something charming, even grounding, about reviving a forgotten food — figgy pudding by candlelight, or a cup of wassail shared with neighbors. In a season frequently dominated by mundane commercialism, these lost dishes invite us to not only savor the past, but to reflect on how our ancestors celebrated long winters and holidays in bygone years.

So this season, whether you light a menorah, decorate a tree, or simply share a meal with loved ones, consider adding a touch of culinary history to your table. Even if it’s just a nod to the sugarplums dancing in your memory!